GLOSSARY: CHILLIES

Chillies (or chilli peppers, chilli, chile) originated from Mexico in Central America and there are several species, all belonging to the capsicum genus.


Chillies have been a part of the human diet in the Americas since at least 7500 BC. There is archaeological evidence at sites located in southwestern Ecuador that chillies were domesticated more than 6000 years ago, and is one of the first cultivated crops in the Americas that is self-pollinating. Chillies are members of the solanaceae family, along with cousins potatoes, eggplants and tomatoes.

Christopher Columbus was one of the first Europeans to encounter chillies (in the Caribbean), and called them "peppers" because of their similarity in taste (though not in appearance) with the Old World black peppers of the Piper genus.


Chillies can be red, green, orange, purple or almost the colour of chocolate. They can be pointy, round, small, club like, long, thin, globular, tapered, or bell shaped. Their skin may be shiny, smooth or wrinkled and their walls may be thick or thin. They range from extremely hot to sweet and mild. Be assured that only a few varieties of chillies are as mild as capsicums.

The colour of chillies is no guide to the intensity of their flavour. Nor is the size. Yet they are utterly delicious and an essential part of the cuisine so many parts of the world. Some people (myself for one) believe they are mildly addictive in a nice and harmless way.


Chillies grow in a range of areas. They are short lived perennials in subtropical and tropical areas, but are normally grown as annuals in colder regions because the cold weather causes them to die off.

In Australia, most fruit is produced from December through to April. chillies like a warm, sunny spot, well drained soil and regular watering during dry weather. Over fertilising can lead to excessive foliage and fewer fruit, just like with tomatoes. I have grown chillies successfully in a hot house throughout the Canberra winter. Ensure that you do not over water during the winter period as the roots may freeze if the ground is too wet.

The substances that give chillies their intensity when ingested or applied topically are capsaicin (8-methyl-N-vanillyl-6-nonenamide) and several related chemicals, collectively called capsaicinoids. Capsaicin is the primary ingredient in pepper spray.

When consumed, capsaicinoids bind with pain receptors in the mouth and throat that are normally responsible for sensing heat. Once activated by the capsaicinoids, these receptors send a message to the brain that the person has consumed something hot. The brain responds to the burning sensation by raising the heart rate, increasing perspiration and release of endorphins.

The "heat" of chillies is measured in Scoville heat units (SHU), which is the number of times a chilli extract must be diluted in water for it to lose its heat. Bell peppers rank at 0 SHU, New Mexico green chillies at about 1,500 SHU, jalapeños at 3,000–6,000 SHU, and habaneros at 300,000 SHU. The record for the hottest chilli was assigned by the Guinness Book of Records to the Naga Jolokia, measuring over 1,000,000 SHU. Pure capsaicin, which is a hydrophobic, colorless, odorless, and crystalline-to-waxy solid at room temperature, measures 16,000,000 SHU.

It is amazing how Capsaicin can get around; therefore care should be taken when handling chillies. Capsaicin can damage your eyes so always prepare chillies by wearing disposable gloves and by thoroughly washing all knives, cutting boards and anything else that has come into contact with a cut chilli. Also, do not allow chillies to come in contact with a cut or graze as it can burn the skin.

Most of chilli’s heat is in its seeds and membrane. You can ‘tone’ down the chilli’s heat by discarding these.


COMMON TYPES OF CHILLIES

 Sweet Chilli: A mild chilli that can be eaten even by children. About 6-8 cm long, bright yellow-lime green skin and pointed at one end.

 Bell Chilli Red/Green: This chilli is shaped like a bell. The red ones are hot the green variety can be medium to hot and are excellent for pickling.

 Green Chilli: A long slender green chilli, 6-8 cm long, pointed at one end. It has a medium flavour that is easily eaten by most people who are not use to chilli. Around 1,000 and 2,000 Scoville units on the heat index.

 Red Chilli: Similar in size and shape to the green chilli, but with more sting to its flavour. Good idea to mix the red and green chillies together in any dish.

 Thai Hot/Bird’s eye chilli: A very hot tiny chilli 1-2 cm long. The skin colour can range from green, lime yellow to orange and red. Most people will find these very hot even without the seeds. Used mainly in Thai, Chinese, Indonesian, Malaysian, Indian or Spanish dishes.

 Mexican Hot Chilli: One of the hottest chillies. It has a bright green skin, is 6 - 8 cm long and is pointed at one end.

 Jalapeño Chilli: This fiery hot chilli is the one by which all other chillies are judged. Ripened they can be dark green or red. They have a very thick fleshy skin and are sausage shaped with a blunt end. The Jalapeño rates between 3,000 and 8,000 Scoville units on the heat index.

 Serrano Chilli: It has thin walls and the Serrano chilli is green in colour at first, and ripens to red, brown, orange, or yellow. It is said to be about 5 times hotter than the Jalapeño and rates between 8,000 and 22,000 Scoville units on the heat index.

 Cayenne Chilli: This chilli is generally dried and ground, or pulped and baked into cakes, which are then ground and sifted to make the powdered spice known as Cayenne pepper. It is generally rated at 30,000 to 50,000 Scoville Units.

COMMON FORMS OF CHILLIES

Chillies are normally sold commercially in the following forms:

 Fresh whole
 Fresh minced
 Dried whole
 Dried flakes
 Dried flakes in oil
 Powdered/Ground
 Pickled in a variety of vinegars or wines and in brine
 Infused in a variety of oils
 Chilli Sauces and Sambals

COOLING DOWN REMEDIES

If you have been unfortunate and suffer from ‘chili burns’ to the mouth, don't be tempted to drink cold water as this can intensify the effect in the short term. Instead, have one of the following:

• Salt – put some common table salt on your tongue
• Milk
• Yoghurt
• Cucumber
• A couple of mint leaves
• Yoghurt with chopped mint

Source: Wikipedia, ABC Gardening and Apex

GARDENING: EASY CARE INDOOR PLANTS – SCHEFFLERA OR UMBRELLA TREE

It been some time since I put any gardening posts up – today seems to be a good day as any day; so here tis.

Schefflera or commonly known as Umbrella plant, is a genus in the flowering plant family Araliaceae. The plants can be trees, shrubs or lianas (climbing vines), growing 1-30 m tall.

Several species are grown in pots as houseplants, most commonly Schefflera actinophylla (Umbrella Tree) and Schefflera arboricola (Dwarf Umbrella Tree). Numerous cultivars have been selected for various characters, most popularly for its variegation or purple foliage. Schefflera arboricola is native to Taiwan and Hainan and is popular as an indoor bonsai.

My Umbrella Tree (pictured above) is 8 years old. I have not “bonsaied” it in the true sense….all I have done is keep it pot bound. Every few years, I change the soil in the pot but I do not transfer the plant to a larger pot. This stunts its growth.

QUICK GUIDE

 The plant prefers higher light if possible, but can adapt to a wide variety of light levels. My plant is positioned about 5 m from the window.

 Being a tropical plant it likes moisture, but avoid letting the plant sit in water after watering so be sure to allow proper drainage. It likes to be moist but not wet. Allow the soil to dry in between watering; however do not allow it to stay dry for long periods of time. If the foliage begins to drop and turn black in color, you are over watering or do not have proper drainage in place. If the foliage tips begin to curl or wrinkle, you are probably under watering the plant.

 Do not be afraid to prune your Schefflera back into shape if it gets out of control. This is one houseplant who will bounce back better than ever after a nice complete pruning.

 The Schefflera is prone to spider mites. To prevent spider mites, give the plant a misting of diluted soapy water once a week. If spider mites are present, try the soapy water misting twice a day. If this does not work, visit your local garden center for a safe pesticide alternative.

 The Schefflera is toxic if consumed.


Source: Wikipedia

GARDENING: NOT SO EASY CARE INDOOR PLANTS – FITTONIA VERSCHAFFELTII OR NERVE PLANT

Fittonia is a garden plant of the Acanthaceae family, notable for its dark green foliage. It is commonly called the "Nerve Plant" or "Mosaic Plant". It is originally from Peru.

There are currently 15 known species of Fittonia. It is a short plant with lush green leaves with accented veins of white to deep pink and have a short fuzz covering its stems. Small buds may appear after time where the stem splits into leaves. Flowers are small, with white to off-white in colour. This plant is best kept in a moist area with dapple sunlight and temperatures above 13°C.


The Fittonia is slightly harder to grow so it is best bought well established and cared for. I however have not found this plant to be needy as most publications have asserted. The Fittonia makes a great indoor plant as well as a groundcover. The plant however must be watered regularly; without water for a few days, this plant is known to "faint" but is easily revived with a quick watering and immersion in a bowl of water.

The Fittonia is one of my favourite indoor plants. I just love the foliage.

QUICK GUIDE

 Fittonia is an evergreen creeping perennial that is noted for its attractive foliage.
 Easily grown in a peaty or soil-based potting mixture.
 Fittonia grows best in bright indirect light or dappled part sun. Avoid direct sun.
 It prefers high humidity so regular spraying of the foliage helps.
 Water regularly but moderately, with only slightly reduced watering from spring to late winter. Yellowing of leaves may indicate over watering. Withering of leaves may indicate the need for increased humidity.
 Pinch off ends of growing stems to shape plants and to promote denser foliage. Many growers also pinch off any flowers buds that may appear. Because of their need for high humidity, they thrive in terrariums and bottle gardens.
 Propagation is by tip cuttings, stem layering and division – I usually put the tips in water and allow roots to grow before transferring into potting mix.

Source: Top Tropicals and Wikipedia

GARDENING: NOT SO EASY CARE INDOOR PLANTS – ADIANTUM CAPILLUS VENERIS OR COMMON MAIDENHAIR FERN

Adiantum Capillus Veneris or the Common/Venus Maidenhair Fern is perhaps one of the most popular of indoor ferns. With pale green new growth this fern is excellent for glasshouse or indoor use. In the summer months, I take most of my ferns out and place them in sheltered areas, normally under larger plants to allow them to ‘breathe’. The plant requires humid conditions, and air movement, but will not tolerate hot, dry winds. I find my bathroom to be the perfect place for my ferns as the temp there is quite constant. However, IF you have a cold bathroom, I don't recommend you put your ferns there as the temp wil fluctuate when you have a shower and this may 'shock' your ferns.


The fern will grow to about 40 cm. Although it is not as easy to maintain, don’t let this put you off. The fern is very regal in its looks and will brighten up any part of your home.

Quick reference guide:

 Requires an abundance of moisture in the air (humidity) and in the soil, though the soil should be well-drained. Provide humidity indoors by standing the pots on top of pebble filled trays or saucers, keep the saucers filled with water to JUST BELOW the bottom of the pot. This way the evaporating water provides humidity but the pot and potting mix does not become waterlogged from standing in the water.

 Likes a position with plenty of light but dislikes full sun. Prefers a sheltered shady position. Maidenhairs prefer a situation that has stable temperature and humidity levels.

 If the plant dries out temporarily. it will lose most of its fronds, though it will usually re-sprout from the base. Keep them evenly moist all year round and from September to March (Australian warmer months) feed them every two weeks with a liquid fertilizer. I use Fish Emulsion and find this to be the best.

 Plants are not very hardy outdoors except in tropical areas. They only succeed in areas with little or no frosts. Cannot stand direct sunlight.

 About every two years Maidenhair ferns need to be potted on. If they are very large they will need to be divided at the same time. Re-pot from September to February using a potting mix containing good amounts of sand and peat. Be careful not to pot the crown of the plant below the soil level as it is from this point that the new fronds develop.

 When re-potting, remove the plant from its old pot and cut off the bottom 40% of soil which contains a few roots. Put a good scoop of the organic mix on top of the gravel, but not too much as the plant will sit too high in the pot. Put the plant on top of this and place more potting mix around it. Don't firm down the mix, just give the pot a shake to settle it in place. Snip off any dried fronds with scissors.

 The main problem is finding the right position for the fern to grow in. They do sometimes get aphids which can be controlled with a Pyrethrum spray, or Disyston granules.

RECIPE: SULTANA SCONES

I have been sitting on this recipe for quite sometime and only remembered when I saw that Mr G had made a batch for the kids. It’s easy to make and great for times when improtu guest arrive around afternoon tea time; as most of the ingredients would be readily available in most pantries.


Ingredients

2 cups SR Flour
1 heaped cup of sultanas
½ tsp salt
2 tbsp sugar
2 tbsp butter
1 cup CREAM or substitute with 1 cup milk (see my GLOSSARY post on CREAM)
Extra milk for glazing

Method

Preheat oven to 210°c.

Sift flour and salt into a bowl. Add sugar and distribute well in the flour.

Rub in butter until mixture resembles fine breadcrumbs. Now add in the sultanas and mix in with a palette knife Add in cream to form a soft dough, using the knife. You don’t want to over work the dough.

Knead lightly on a floured surface and form into a square 3 cm thick. Cut into 16 equal squares and placed on floured or baking paper lined (ungreased) baking tray.

Brush tops of scones with some milk and bake for 12 to 15 mins (you may want to check them at the 10 min mark because of oven differences).

Serve hot with butter and a delicious cup of hot tea.

TIP: It’s always handy to have some long life cream stored in the pantry. During summer, I suggest you store it in the fridge.

GLOSSARY: TURMERIC

TURMERIC (Curcuma longa) is a rhizomatous herbaceous perennial plant of the ginger family, Zingiberaceae. It is an ancient spice, native to South East Asia and used from antiquity as dye, condiment and medicine. It is cultivated primarily in Bengal, China, Taiwan, Sri Lanka, Java, Peru, Australia and the West Indies. It is still used in Hindu rituals and as a dye for holy robes, being natural, unsynthesized and cheap. TURMERIC is in fact one of the cheapest spices.

Its use dates back nearly 4000 years, to the Vedic culture in India where it was used as a culinary spice and had some religious significance. The name derives from the Latin terra merita “meritorious earth” referring to the colour of ground TURMERIC which resembles a mineral pigment. In many languages, TURMERIC is simply named as “yellow root”.


The rhizomes are boiled for several hours and then dried in hot ovens, after which they are ground into a deep orange-yellow powder commonly used as a spice in curries and other South Asian and Middle Eastern cuisine, for dyeing, and to impart colour to mustard condiments. Its active ingredient is curcumin and it has an earthy, bitter, peppery flavour and a mustardy smell.

TURMERIC is nearly always used in ground form however it is used fresh in Malay and Indonesian cooking where the leaves are also used in cooking. The powder will maintain its colouring properties indefinitely though the flavour will diminish over time so buy in moderation. Store in airtight containers, out of sunlight.

TURMERIC (coded as E100 when used as a food additive) is used to protect food products from sunlight. In combination with annatto (E160b), TURMERIC has been used to colour cheeses, yogurt, ice cream, orange juice, cakes and biscuits, popcorn, cereals, salad dressings, gelatine, winter butter, margarine etc. TURMERIC is also used to give the yellow colour to some prepared mustards, canned chicken broths and other foods (often as a much cheaper replacement for saffron). It is a significant ingredient in most commercial curry powders.

MEDICINAL USES

In Ayurvedic practices, TURMERIC is thought to have many medicinal properties and many in South Asia (particularly India) use it as a readily available antiseptic for cuts, burns and bruises. Practitioners of Ayurvedic medicine say it has fluoride which is thought to be essential for teeth. It is also used as an antibacterial agent.

It is taken in some Asian countries as a dietary supplement, which allegedly helps with stomach problems and other ailments. It is popular as a tea in Okinawa, Japan. Pakistanis also use it as an anti-inflammatory agent, and remedy for gastrointestinal discomfort associated with irritable bowel syndrome, and other digestive disorders. In Afghanistan and North West Pakistan, TURMERIC is applied to a piece of burnt cloth, and placed over a wound to cleanse and stimulate recovery. Indians, in addition to its Ayurvedic properties, use TURMERIC in a wide variety of skin creams that are also exported to neighboring countries. It is currently being investigated by Western medicine for possible benefits in the treatment of pancreatic cancer, multiple myeloma, Alzheimer's and colorectal cancer. TURMERIC is also used in the formulation of some sunscreens.

TURMERIC paste is applied to bride and groom before marriage in some places of India, Bangladesh, and Pakistan, where it is believed turmeric gives glow to skin and keeps some harmful bacteria away from the body.

OTHER NAMES

Indian Saffron, Tumeric, Yellow Ginger

French: curcuma, saffron des Indes
German: Gelbwurz
Italian: curcuma
Spanish: curcuma
Arabic: kharkoum
Burmese: fa nwin
Chinese: wong geung fun
Indian: haldee, haldi, huldee, huldie
Indonesian: kunjit, kunyit
Malay: kunyit
Sinhalese: kaha
Tamil: munjal
Thai: kamin

Source: Wikipedia and The Epicentre


PS: I have successfully grown TURMERIC in Canberra. I cultivated it from fresh TURMERIC bought from the green grocers.

Look for turmeric with small rhizomes. You will need a small pot with some seed raising mix, bury the root about 2 to 3 cm from the top and hope for the best. Do not over water, as it would rot the fresh turmeric. Leave in a warm sheltered position. When the plant is about 12 to 18 cm high, (providing the temperature is right), you will need to transfer it to a garden bed…. and watch it grow!

However you will need to protect the plant from mid April to Mid October, preferabably in a hot house as Canberra weather will be too cold for it.

GLOSSARY: GINGER

GINGER is native to India and China. It takes its name from the Sanskrit word stringa-vera, which means “with a body like a horn”, as in antlers.

GINGER has been important in Chinese medicine for many centuries, and is mentioned in the writings of Confucius. It is also named in the Koran, the sacred book of the Moslems, indicating it was known in Arab countries as far back as 650 A.D. It was one of the earliest spice known in Western Europe, used since the ninth century. It became so popular in Europe that it was included in every table setting, like salt and pepper. A common article of medieval and Renaissance trade, it was one of the spices used against the plague. In English pubs and taverns in the nineteenth century, barkeepers put out small containers of ground GINGER, for people to sprinkle into their beer — the origin of ginger ale. In order to ’gee up’ a lazy horse, it is the time honoured practice of Sussex farmers to apply a pinch of GINGER to the animal’s backside!!!

Although often called “ginger root” it is actually a rhizome. It is available in various forms. Fresh GINGER is essential to Indian, South-East Asian and oriental cookery. It is used in pickles, chutneys and curry pastes and the ground dried root is a constituent of many curry powders. In the West, dried and crystalised ginger is mainly used in cakes, biscuits, puddings, jams, preserves and in some drinks like ginger beer, ginger wine and tea.

In Asian cooking, GINGER is almost always used fresh, either minced, crushed or sliced. Fresh GINGER can be kept for several weeks in the salad drawer of the refrigerator. Dried GINGER should be ‘bruised’ by beating it to open the fibers, then infused in the cooking or making ginger beer and removed when the flavour is sufficient. Store dried and powdered GINGER in airtight containers.

MEDICINAL QUALITIES

GINGER has long been ascribed aphrodisiac powers, taken either internally or externally. It is mentioned in the Karma Sutra, and in the Melanesian Islands of the South Pacific it is employed ‘to gain the affection of a woman’. Conversely, in the Philippines it is chewed to expel evil spirits. GINGER is a known diaphoretic, meaning it causes one to sweat. It was recorded that Henry VIII instructed the mayor of London to use ginger’s diaphoretic qualities as a plague medicine.

GINGER is most commonly known for its effectiveness as a digestive aid. By increasing the production of digestive fluids and saliva, GINGER helps relieve indigestion, gas pains, diarrhea and stomach cramping. The primary known constituents of GINGER Root include gingerols, zingibain, bisabolenel, oleoresins, starch, essential oil (zingiberene, zingiberole, camphene, cineol, borneol), mucilage, and protein. GINGER root is also used to treat nausea related to both motion sickness and morning sickness. Ginger has been found to be even more effective than Dramamine® in curbing motion sickness, without causing drowsiness. GINGER 's anti-inflammatory properties help relieve pain and reduce inflammation associated with arthritis, rheumatism and muscle spasms. GINGER 's therapeutic properties effectively stimulate circulation of the blood, removing toxins from the body, cleansing the bowels and kidneys, and nourishing the skin. Other uses for GINGER Root include the treatment of asthma, bronchitis and other respiratory problems by loosening and expelling phlegm from the lungs. GINGER Root may also be used to help break fevers by warming the body and increasing perspiration.

OTHER NAMES

East Indian Pepper, Jamaica Ginger, Jamaica Pepper

French: gingembre
German: Ingwer
Italian: zenzero
Spanish: jengibre
Burmese: cheung, chiang, jeung
Indian: adruk (green), ard(r)ak(h) (green), sont(h) (dried)
Indonesian/Malay: aliah/halia
Japanese: mioga, myoga, shoga
Thai: k(h)ing (green)

Source: The Epicentre


PS: I have successfully grown GINGER in Canberra. I cultivated it from fresh GINGER bought from the green grocers and also through mail order from ALL RARE HERBS.

Look for GINGER with small rhizomes. You will need a small pot with some seed raising mix, bury the root about 2 to 3 cm from the top and hope for the best. Do not over water, as it would rot the fresh GINGER. Leave in a warm sheltered position. When the plant is about 12 to 18 cm high, (providing the temperature is right), you will need to transfer it to a garden bed…. and watch it grow!

However you will need to protect the plant from mid April to Mid October, preferabably in a hot house as Canberra weather will be too cold for it.

GLOSSARY: LEMON GRASS

LEMON GRASS or Cymbopogon is a genus of about 55 species of grasses, native to warm temperate and tropical regions of the Old World and Oceania. It is a tall perennial grass. Common names include lemongrass, barbed wire grass, silky heads, citronella grass, fever grass or Hierba Luisa amongst many others.Not all varieties are edible.

The LEMON GRASS that is suitable for cooking is the ‘Cymbopogon citratus’ and is native to Malaysia. It has a citrus flavour and can be dried and powdered, or used fresh. The lower portion is sliced, pounded or bruised (to release its flavour and essential oils) and used in cooking. As a spice, fresh LEMON GRASS is preferred for its vibrant flavour. The dried spice is available in several forms: chopped in slices, cut and sifted, powdered, or as oil.

LEMON GRASS is commonly used in teas, soups, and curries. It is also suitable for poultry, fish, and seafood. It is often used as a tea in African and Latino-American countries.

If using fresh LEMON GRASS, use only the lower bulbous portion of the stem. It can be pounded and used whole or cut in slices. When using the ground powder (sereh) use one teaspoon as an equal to one stalk of fresh. It is advisable to soak dried sliced lemon grass for two hours before using.

When wrapped in a paper bag, LEMON GRASS stems can last 2 to 3 weeks in the refrigerator. The stems can also be frozen for several months. Always wrap and store separately, as LEMON GRASS will impart its flavour to other foods.

OTHER USES

Citronella Grass (Cymbopogon nardus and Cymbopogon winterianus) is similar to the species above but grows to 2 m and has red base stems. These species are used for the production of citronella oil, which is used in soaps, as a mosquito repellent in insect sprays and candles, and also in aromatherapy, which is famous in Bintan, Indonesia. The principal chemical constituents of citronella, geraniol and citronellol, are antiseptics, hence their use in household disinfectants and soaps. Besides oil production, citronella grass is also used for culinary purposes, in tea and as a flavoring. The essential oil is used in perfumery too.

LEMON GRASS Oil is said to be an excellent pesticide and the Oriental Research Institute in Mysore, India apply it on ancient manuscripts to preserve them. The oil also keeps the manuscripts dry from humidity hence delaying the decay process of humidity. Research also shows that LEMON GRASS oil has antifungal properties.
LEMON GRASS also has medicinal properties and is used extensively in ancient Indian Ayurvedic medicines. It is supposed to help with relieving cough and nasal congestion.

The GRASS is considered a diuretic, tonic and stimulant. It promotes good digestion, and a preparation of LEMON GRASS with pepper has been used for relief of menstrual troubles and nausea. It induces perspiration, to cool the body and reduce a fever.

OTHER NAMES

Camel’s Hay, Citronella, Geranium Grass, Cochin Grass, Sereh (powder)

French: herbe de citron
German: Zitronengras
Italian: erba di limone
Spanish: hierba de limon
Indian: bhustrina, sera
Indonesian: sere, sereh
Lao: bai mak nao
Malay: serai
Sinhalese: sera
Thai: takrai

Source: Wikipedia and The Epicentre


PS: I have grown LEMON GRASS in Canberra. You can buy the plant from Bunnings from mid November to February. For a better yield, I’d recommend planting it in the ground and protecting it from the cold from mid April to mid October, preferably in a hot house.

Give it a feed of potassium nitrate in summer to 'fatten' up the stalks. Make sure you do not pour the potassium directly on the roots but about 6 inches away from the roots.

TIP: HOW TO COOK PERFECT HARD BOILED EGGS

Everyone takes cooking eggs for granted. Well, it’s usually the one thing that all of us supposedly can do. But there is an art to the perfect boiled egg. The main thing I found is that you must bring your eggs to room temperature if they have been refrigerated. If you boil them straight from the fridge, your eggs will most definitely crack.

So for a full proof method, check out my tips below:

* Try to use fresh eggs if possible and one that is at room temperature (not straight out of the fridge).

* Make sure your saucepan is not too big, so the eggs do not have room to move and bang each other while the water is boiling/simmering.

* Always start with cold water in the saucepan and only just cover the eggs by 1cm.

* Use a kitchen timer if possible – this is more accurate than your watch or clock.

* Use a gentle simmer, never fast boiling water.

* If you want to slice or wedge your eggs and want your egg yolk to be in the middle, you can achieve this by using a chopstick or wooden spoon to gently swirl the eggs during the first two minutes of the water coming to the boil.

* Do not boil eggs longer than necessary as the yolks will turn dark and rubbery.

Method

Bring eggs to room temperature if they have been refrigerated. I normally quicken this process by placing them in a bowl with cold tap water.

Place eggs into a small saucepan and cover with cold tap water. Bring to the boil over medium heat.

Reduce heat and simmer for:
* 5 minutes if you like a softer centre.
* 6 to 7 minutes if you like a hard centre.

Immediately remove the eggs from the boiling water with a slotted spoon and use as desired.

TIP: HOW TO REMOVE BITTERNESS IN CUCUMBERS

Cucurbitacin B and cucurbitacin C are the compounds which cause bitterness in cucumbers. The amount of bitterness cucumbers contain varies from year to year. There are many theories about bitterness but it has been difficult to obtain consistent information as to its cause. Some varieties are bitterer than others and the rule of thumb is, the smaller the cucumber, the less bitter it tends to be. To be on the safe side, I always tend to buy or grow Lebanese cucumbers.

This is a method I use to reduce bitterness in cucumbers. You may ask that how would you know whether a cucumber is bitter or not without tasting it. The short answer is, you can’t. So with all cucumbers, regardless, I prepare them using this method.

Before peeling the cucumber, cut a slice from the top of the cucumber (about 1.5 cm thick). Using this piece, rub vigorously, in a circular motion, on the top of the cucumber where the slice was cut from. You should see some foam appear. A thicker whiter foam indicates a slightly bitter cucumber. Slice off about ½ to 1 cm and discard and use the rest of the cucumber as desired. This should help remove some of the bitterness.

GLOSSARY: CREAM

Cream is a dairy by-product – it is a layer of butterfat that is skimmed from the top of milk before homogenization. In this method (or the un-homogenized milk method), over time, the lighter fat rises to the top. In many countries, cream is sold in several grades depending on the total butterfat content. Cream can be dried to a powder for shipment to distant markets.

Cream produced by cows (particularly Jersey cattle) grazing on natural pasture often contains some natural carotenoid pigments derived from the plants they eat; this gives the cream a slight yellow tone, hence the name ‘cream’ to identify the colour of yellowish-white tones. Cream from non grazing cows, on grain or grain-based pellets, is white.

Cream is used as an ingredient in many foods, including ice cream, sauces, soups, stews, puddings, and some custard bases, and is also used for cakes. Irish cream is an alcoholic liqueur which blends cream with whiskey and coffee. Cream is also used in curries. Cream (usually light/single cream or half and half) is often added to coffee.

For cooking purposes, both single and double cream can be used in cooking, although the former can separate when heated, usually if there is a high acid content.

TYPES OF CREAMS

Thickened or Double cream has about 48% of milk fat. It's the easiest and thickest cream to whip, usually used for for puddings and desserts. It can also be piped.

Whipped cream is made by whisking or mixing air into cream with more than 30% fat, to turn the liquid cream into a soft solid. Nitrous oxide or carbon dioxide may also be used to make whipped cream.


Sour cream, common in many countries including the U.S. and Australia, is cream (12 to 16% or more milk fat) that has been subjected to a bacterial culture that produces lactic acid (0.5%+), which sours and thickens it.

Crème fraîche (28% milk fat) slightly soured with bacterial culture, but not as sour or as thick as sour cream. Mexican crema (or cream espesa) is similar to crème fraîche.

Smetana is a heavy cream product (35-40% milk fat) Central and Eastern European sour cream.

Rjome or rømme is Norwegian sour cream cointaining 35% milk fat, similar to Icelandic rjómi.

Clotted cream, common in the United Kingdom, is cream that has been slowly heated to dry and thicken it, producing a very high-fat (55%) product. This is similar to Indian malai.

TIP: It’s always handy to have some long life cream stored in the pantry. During summer, I suggest you store it in the fridge.

GARDENING: EASY CARE INDOOR PLANTS – SPATHIPHYLLUM OR PEACE LILY

One of the easiest and most common house plants is the Spathiphyllum. Often known only by its common name of Peace Lily, there are many cultivars of Spathiphyllum which are essentially quite similar. Some claim to have larger leaves, glossier leaves, longer lasting leaves, better flowers and other attributes, but apart from one that produces a green flower and another that has variegated leaves, they all produce white flowers.

Spathiphyllum is a native of South America and the Indo-Malaysian archipelago. It's a member of the Araceae or arum Family, which also includes Anthurium and Philodendron.

Quick reference guide:

 Spathiphyllum is ideal for the darker spots in the house, as its light requirements are quite low. In fact, do not put this plant in full sunlight - it won't like it!

 Most indoor plants are killed by either too much water, too little water or too much fertiliser and Spathiphyllum is no different. Only water plants when they are drying out. The best method for testing if your indoor plant needs water is to stick your finger in the soil to check!

 Do not allow the potting media to totally dry out as this can quickly cause plant wilting and death. However, my Spathiphyllum was able to bounce back from being totally wilted and near-death. What I did was simply stand the pot in a container of water, halfway to the pot.

 Its fertiliser requirements are quite low. Weakened solutions of liquid fertiliser (follow the instructions for indoor plants) can be applied a couple of times per year when it is actively growing.

 Regular spraying of foliage with a mist of water will keep the humidity a bit higher around the plant, which is important in the dry conditions of air conditioned environments. Old, dead leaves should be removed.

 Spathiphyllum is an excellent toxin remover in the house and office. Simply place desktop sized Spathiphyllum near computers, to help clean up those volatile chemicals.

 Spathiphyllum is mildly toxic to humans and animals when ingested. So don't eat it, no matter how hungry you are!!!

QUOTE OF THE DAY (AND HOLIDAY PICS)

Every artist dips his brush in his own soul, and paints his own nature into his pictures ~ Henry Ward Beecher (Liberal US Congregational Minister, 1813-1887)

This talented artist took less than 5 minutes to finish this painting. You can find him at the Surfers Paradise Esplanade Markets, which is held every Wednesdays and Fridays (except during schoolie week, which is around the third week of November, when the esplanade shuts down to accommodate drunk and disorderly teenagers!).

PS: I am so proud of myself....this may sound like bragging and I am sure you guys out there may think this is no feat. But I am not very computer savvy when it comes to blogging so the fact that I was able to turn my pics into a video file and upload it onto bloggers, I am quite pleased with myself! It took me 20 minutes to upload these pics as opposed to 2 hours to load just 8 pics. Go figure!?!

What I did was make a slide show in PhotoShop, then I saved it as a video file on windows. Use the video icon on bloggers and upload the files. Bobs Your Uncle!! ('There you go, it's done').

GARDENING: AIR PURIFYING INDOOR PLANTS

Indoor plants are an essential element to any office setting and in my opinion, homes. They can add warmth, colour, texture, and they also purify the air.

A recent study by the University of Technology Sydney found that pot plants could remove common pollutants. Three large pot plants per room (that’s floor-standing sized plants) are enough to clean the air to the point where contaminants are negligible.

In 1989 a scientific study for NASA found that a number of popular indoor plants, including Dracaena and Spathiphyllum, were effective in purifying the air. Air pollutants can be a bi-product of the material in office furniture and building materials, and from air-conditioning.


Certain plants, more than others, can absorb the poisons and toxins in the air. These include Dracaena deremensis; the bamboo palm Chamaedorea microspadix, which is attractive looking, and the sculptured Dracaena marginata.


Another good indoor plant is the Sansevieria trifasciata, or mother in law's tongue. It needs little water, is very hardy, and does well in low light.

The peace lily Spathiphyllum is one of the plants that probably performs the best in low light conditions. Leave it in a room without any windows and it will survive on artificial light.


Aglaonema is a beautiful plant that also does well in low light and is in the top10 most popular plants that remove toxins from the air. Different varieties include ‘Silver Queen’ and ‘Silver King’ - so named because of the silver mottling in the leaves.


Yuccas are an in-vogue plant at the moment. In fact many plants with angles are popular. Look out for Yucca elephantipes which looks good in a pot, but try a combination of three different sizes in the same pot. These plants look especially good in boardrooms and reception areas.

Happy gardening.

GARDENING: EASY CARE INDOOR PLANTS – SYNGONIUM OR ARROWHEAD PLANT

Currently I have around 6 different varieties of Syngonium and it is one of my favourite plants as it is so easy to grow and quite hassle free. I just love the variegation in the foliage and their colours.


The other good thing about this plant is you can either grow it in soil or in water. The plant is not ‘shocked’ easily so you can easily change its position around the house. What I mean by ‘shocked’ is that some plants do not like to be shifted once they have settled in a position. They can go into shock and wither when you change their ‘home’, until they get acclimatised again.


Tip: I usually grow most of my plants in plastic pots. I then have a variety of pretty containers such as porcelain and brass pots and change my plants around the house according to seasons, light levels or just to change the décor. This way, you are not restricted to the same plant in the same position.


FYI, Syngonium is a genus of 33 species of flowering plants in the family Araceae, native to tropical rain forests in Central and South America. They are woody vines growing to heights of 10-20 m or more in trees. They have leaves that change shape according to the plant's stage of growth, and adult leaf forms are often much more lobed than the juvenile forms usually seen on small house plants.

Syngonium species are often grown as house plants in the juvenile foliage stages.


Quick reference guide:
 There are several variegated cultivars, the main differences being in the position and extent of the cream or white markings. Some leaves are almost entirely white, pink or yellow. All parts of the plant are poisonous and cause severe mouth pain if eaten.
 For successful growth, a winter minimum temperature 16 °C to 18 °C must be maintained, rising to 20 °C to 30 °C during the growing season.
 They require high humidity, including misting the leaves regularly, and good light, but not direct sunlight; they will tolerate low light levels. Water freely from spring to autumn, sparingly in winter.
 Feed regularly in spring and summer.
 If juvenile foliage is preferred, cut off all the climbing stems that develop — the plant will remain bushy, rather than climb, and the leaves will be more arrow-shaped.
 Re-pot every second spring.
 Propagation is by cuttings or air layering. I normally just cut pieces near the tip of the plant, allowing provisions of some aerial roots and sticking it into water until it takes root completely. I also grow them in water permanently (see picture below).

GARDENING: EASY CARE INDOOR POT PLANTS – CHAMAEDOREA ELEGANS OR PARLOUR PALM

One of the easiest plants to grow in your home and also looks great is the Chamaedorea Elegans or Parlour Palm, as it is commonly known. For over a century, parlour palms have enjoyed a place in homes all over the world. A low growing palm (up to 3 feet high) that is very tough, it will tolerate a lot of abuse but with a small amount of care will thrive. Great in almost any room of the house. Originally from Mexico and Guatemala, its original habitat is as an understory plant in rainforests. It therefore can tolerate low light areas in the house and does not like direct sunlight.

The Chamaedorea Elegans is a dwarf palm with long graceful green fronds. The leaves can grow to 3-4 feet long and are held upright by a small diameter reed-like trunk. The palm grows slowly and seldom reaches over 3-4 feet in height. The palm is very hardy and provides a fantastic tropical effect indoors or out. The plant is frost tolerant up to minus 4°C.

This graceful looking palm is very easy to grow and maintain. Plant in fast draining soil and place palm out of direct sunlight. Lightly fertilize with a dose of slow release fertiliser during the start of the cooler months and liquid fertiliser once a month during the warmer periods. Let soil almost dry out between watering. Misting and occasional turning of the palm (makes the leaves grow evenly and the trunk grow straight) is recommended for maximum beauty. Do not leave water standing in saucer.


Quick reference guide:

 Site: A light position but will also handle some shade.
 Temp: Average warmth - will need misting if its really hot.
 Water: Quite regularly in the growing season and rarely over the winter months.
 Feeding: A liquid feed every month or so; 1 dose of slow release fertiliser during the start of winter.
 Tip: Brown tips on the leaves mean the humidity needs to be raised, give it a light misting with a spay bottle.
 General: Probably the most commonly grown indoor palm in the world. Very resilient to low light, air-conditioning, drying out, and over watering (though not necessarily enjoying any of them).
 One of the most popular palms in the world, its ability to put up with low light, drought and general abuse is legendary. Additionally it flowers when still quite young. It is not recommended that you tap the flowers for toddy, he!he!

GARDENING: EASY CARE INDOOR POT PLANTS – SCINDAPSUS AUREUS OR DEVIL’S IVY

Okay, as promised, I am posting my gardening tips again and today I will continue with another easy indoor plant to grow which is the Scindapsus Aureus or the Devil’s Ivy aka Pothos.

It is a common houseplant and is easy to grow from cuttings. I normally just cut pieces near the tip of the plant, allowing some aerial roots and sticking it into water until it takes root. It does very well in low light levels. You can let this plant go for a week or so without water and be careful about overwatering. Avoid growing the plant in full sun.


The Scindapsus is a trailing or climbing plant and does well trained on a moss pole. I however like to cascade it by placing it on top of a cupboard or ledge, or in a macramé pot hanger. Its leaves are leathery and heart shaped. The leaves are often variegated. However, in the literature, it says that the more variegated the leaves, the harder the plant is to care for. I have not found this to be an issue.


Quick reference guide:
 Temperature: Prefers warmer temperatures of between 15°C and 30°c. Lower leaves will turn yellow or produce rust like spots if temperatures fall below 10°c to 12°c.

 Light : Does best in medium to bright indirect sunlight or light.

 Water: Should be watered well and allowed to dry out on top in the warmer brighter environments. Reduce water substantially in lower light conditions. Over watering causes root rot and leaf drop.

 Humidity: Tolerates high humidity and enjoys misting in the high light areas.

 Pests: Is relatively free of pests if maintained in a healthy condition. Is prone to attack by mealy bug, thrips and mites when under environmental maintenance stress.

 Feeding: A liquid feed every month or so during warmer months.

 Tip: If your plant is getting too leggy pinch out the tips and propagate extra plants with the pinched out foliage.

 History: Originally from the Solomon Islands it has been a main stay as an interior foliage plant, because of its tolerance for adverse indoor growing conditions. Devil’s Ivy belongs to the aroid (Araceae) family, which contains more than 100 genera including a number of popular foliaged plant genera such as Aglaonema, Anthurium, Diffenbachia, Monsteria and Philodendron.

GARDENING: BUYING INDOOR PLANTS AND POTTING TIPS

Peace Lily

Parlour Palm

Two of the easiest house plants to grow are the Peace Lily (Spathiphyllum) and the Parlour Palm (Chamaedorea elegans) . Even the most novice of gardeners are able to grow these plants. Ensure that you start off with a healthy plant. You can find good quality plants at Bunnings or your local garden centres. I don’t normally recommend buying plants from supermarkets as the plants are not looked after as vigorously as it would have been in a proper nursery or hardware centres that have dedicated nurseries in their establishments.

Next, make sure that the plant looks healthy and has lots of new shoots at the side of the main plant (this will ensure that you will have an even growth and that the plant will not grow lanky) and that there are no excess roots at the bottom of the plant. Roots showing at the bottom of the plants denote that the plants have been pot bound for too long. Finally, make sure that the soil in the pot is moist. You don’t want to buy a dehydrated plant.

Once you have chosen your plant, the next stage is to choose a medium to grow your plant in. For novices, always ensure that your medium has drainage holes as you don’t want your plant to be submerged in water constantly and hence suffer from root rot. If you tend to travel a lot and are away from your home for extended periods of time, I’d suggest self watering pots. You can get some really nice designs at your local nurseries, hardware stores or at Big W or Kmart. Ensure that the size of your new container is only a size or two bigger than the original pot. If the pot is too big, the plant will expense most of its energy to build roots, not the foliage. Also if your pot is not in proportion with your plant, it will loose its aesthetics.

The next stage is your potting mix. Don’t skimp on quality here and make sure that you buy soil suitable for container planting. Also, at this stage, don’t forget to purchase your slow release fertiliser, fish emulsion, water retention crystals and watering can (trust me, this comes in handy). If you are using self watering containers, plant your new plant according to the instructions.

If you are using terracotta or plastic containers, start by heavily watering the plant that is to be transferred. Prepare your soil by adding water crystals as per packet instruction. Then fill in the base of the new pot with some soil. Insert the existing plant pot into the new pot, ensuring that the level of the soil surface will be about 1 to 2 cm below the top of the new pot when filled. Pack soil firmly in the gap between the new pot and existing pot. This will create a mould. Gently lift out the existing pot, remove the plant from the pot, and drop it into the hole of the new pot. Gently firm the soil on the top of the plant, adding more if needed (but ensuring that you still have that 1 to 2 cm gap at the top). Put in your slow release fertiliser as per packet instruction. Water thoroughly. You are now the proud owner of a new re potted plant!

During the growing periods (in Australia it would be end spring to mid autumn) to ensure a more luscious and healthy growth, you can give your plants a feed of liquid fertiliser. I personally go for either the fish or seaweed solutions. Use per bottle instructions.

I have attached two photos as an example (see above). I have them sitting on the bathroom sink. I bought these plants last November and they were around 18cms and I paid AUD$3.95 per plant. They are now between 30 and 45cms which would retail around AUD$19.95 each.

Happy gardening!