Showing posts with label Gardening. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Gardening. Show all posts

Friday, 21 August 2009

GARDENING: EASY CARE INDOOR PLANTS – SCHEFFLERA OR UMBRELLA TREE


It been some time since I put any gardening posts up – today seems to be a good day as any day; so here tis.

Schefflera or commonly known as Umbrella plant, is a genus in the flowering plant family Araliaceae. The plants can be trees, shrubs or lianas (climbing vines), growing 1-30 m tall.

Several species are grown in pots as houseplants, most commonly Schefflera actinophylla (Umbrella Tree) and Schefflera arboricola (Dwarf Umbrella Tree). Numerous cultivars have been selected for various characters, most popularly for its variegation or purple foliage. Schefflera arboricola is native to Taiwan and Hainan and is popular as an indoor bonsai.

My Umbrella Tree (pictured above) is 8 years old. I have not “bonsaied” it in the true sense….all I have done is keep it pot bound. Every few years, I change the soil in the pot but I do not transfer the plant to a larger pot. This stunts its growth.

QUICK GUIDE

 The plant prefers higher light if possible, but can adapt to a wide variety of light levels. My plant is positioned about 5 m from the window.

 Being a tropical plant it likes moisture, but avoid letting the plant sit in water after watering so be sure to allow proper drainage. It likes to be moist but not wet. Allow the soil to dry in between watering; however do not allow it to stay dry for long periods of time. If the foliage begins to drop and turn black in color, you are over watering or do not have proper drainage in place. If the foliage tips begin to curl or wrinkle, you are probably under watering the plant.

 Do not be afraid to prune your Schefflera back into shape if it gets out of control. This is one houseplant who will bounce back better than ever after a nice complete pruning.

 The Schefflera is prone to spider mites. To prevent spider mites, give the plant a misting of diluted soapy water once a week. If spider mites are present, try the soapy water misting twice a day. If this does not work, visit your local garden center for a safe pesticide alternative.

 The Schefflera is toxic if consumed.


Source: Wikipedia

Thursday, 11 June 2009

GARDENING: NOT SO EASY CARE INDOOR PLANTS – FITTONIA VERSCHAFFELTII OR NERVE PLANT


Fittonia is a garden plant of the Acanthaceae family, notable for its dark green foliage. It is commonly called the "Nerve Plant" or "Mosaic Plant". It is originally from Peru.

There are currently 15 known species of Fittonia. It is a short plant with lush green leaves with accented veins of white to deep pink and have a short fuzz covering its stems. Small buds may appear after time where the stem splits into leaves. Flowers are small, with white to off-white in colour. This plant is best kept in a moist area with dapple sunlight and temperatures above 13°C.


The Fittonia is slightly harder to grow so it is best bought well established and cared for. I however have not found this plant to be needy as most publications have asserted. The Fittonia makes a great indoor plant as well as a groundcover. The plant however must be watered regularly; without water for a few days, this plant is known to "faint" but is easily revived with a quick watering and immersion in a bowl of water.

The Fittonia is one of my favourite indoor plants. I just love the foliage.

QUICK GUIDE

 Fittonia is an evergreen creeping perennial that is noted for its attractive foliage.
 Easily grown in a peaty or soil-based potting mixture.
 Fittonia grows best in bright indirect light or dappled part sun. Avoid direct sun.
 It prefers high humidity so regular spraying of the foliage helps.
 Water regularly but moderately, with only slightly reduced watering from spring to late winter. Yellowing of leaves may indicate over watering. Withering of leaves may indicate the need for increased humidity.
 Pinch off ends of growing stems to shape plants and to promote denser foliage. Many growers also pinch off any flowers buds that may appear. Because of their need for high humidity, they thrive in terrariums and bottle gardens.
 Propagation is by tip cuttings, stem layering and division – I usually put the tips in water and allow roots to grow before transferring into potting mix.

Source: Top Tropicals and Wikipedia

Tuesday, 21 April 2009

GARDENING: NOT SO EASY CARE INDOOR PLANTS – ADIANTUM CAPILLUS VENERIS OR COMMON MAIDENHAIR FERN


Adiantum Capillus Veneris or the Common/Venus Maidenhair Fern is perhaps one of the most popular of indoor ferns. With pale green new growth this fern is excellent for glasshouse or indoor use. In the summer months, I take most of my ferns out and place them in sheltered areas, normally under larger plants to allow them to ‘breathe’. The plant requires humid conditions, and air movement, but will not tolerate hot, dry winds. I find my bathroom to be the perfect place for my ferns as the temp there is quite constant. However, IF you have a cold bathroom, I don't recommend you put your ferns there as the temp wil fluctuate when you have a shower and this may 'shock' your ferns.


The fern will grow to about 40 cm. Although it is not as easy to maintain, don’t let this put you off. The fern is very regal in its looks and will brighten up any part of your home.

Quick reference guide:

 Requires an abundance of moisture in the air (humidity) and in the soil, though the soil should be well-drained. Provide humidity indoors by standing the pots on top of pebble filled trays or saucers, keep the saucers filled with water to JUST BELOW the bottom of the pot. This way the evaporating water provides humidity but the pot and potting mix does not become waterlogged from standing in the water.

 Likes a position with plenty of light but dislikes full sun. Prefers a sheltered shady position. Maidenhairs prefer a situation that has stable temperature and humidity levels.

 If the plant dries out temporarily. it will lose most of its fronds, though it will usually re-sprout from the base. Keep them evenly moist all year round and from September to March (Australian warmer months) feed them every two weeks with a liquid fertilizer. I use Fish Emulsion and find this to be the best.

 Plants are not very hardy outdoors except in tropical areas. They only succeed in areas with little or no frosts. Cannot stand direct sunlight.

 About every two years Maidenhair ferns need to be potted on. If they are very large they will need to be divided at the same time. Re-pot from September to February using a potting mix containing good amounts of sand and peat. Be careful not to pot the crown of the plant below the soil level as it is from this point that the new fronds develop.

 When re-potting, remove the plant from its old pot and cut off the bottom 40% of soil which contains a few roots. Put a good scoop of the organic mix on top of the gravel, but not too much as the plant will sit too high in the pot. Put the plant on top of this and place more potting mix around it. Don't firm down the mix, just give the pot a shake to settle it in place. Snip off any dried fronds with scissors.

 The main problem is finding the right position for the fern to grow in. They do sometimes get aphids which can be controlled with a Pyrethrum spray, or Disyston granules.

Sunday, 14 December 2008

GARDENING: EASY CARE INDOOR PLANTS – SPATHIPHYLLUM OR PEACE LILY


One of the easiest and most common house plants is the Spathiphyllum. Often known only by its common name of Peace Lily, there are many cultivars of Spathiphyllum which are essentially quite similar. Some claim to have larger leaves, glossier leaves, longer lasting leaves, better flowers and other attributes, but apart from one that produces a green flower and another that has variegated leaves, they all produce white flowers.

Spathiphyllum is a native of South America and the Indo-Malaysian archipelago. It's a member of the Araceae or arum Family, which also includes Anthurium and Philodendron.

Quick reference guide:

 Spathiphyllum is ideal for the darker spots in the house, as its light requirements are quite low. In fact, do not put this plant in full sunlight - it won't like it!

 Most indoor plants are killed by either too much water, too little water or too much fertiliser and Spathiphyllum is no different. Only water plants when they are drying out. The best method for testing if your indoor plant needs water is to stick your finger in the soil to check!

 Do not allow the potting media to totally dry out as this can quickly cause plant wilting and death. However, my Spathiphyllum was able to bounce back from being totally wilted and near-death. What I did was simply stand the pot in a container of water, halfway to the pot.

 Its fertiliser requirements are quite low. Weakened solutions of liquid fertiliser (follow the instructions for indoor plants) can be applied a couple of times per year when it is actively growing.

 Regular spraying of foliage with a mist of water will keep the humidity a bit higher around the plant, which is important in the dry conditions of air conditioned environments. Old, dead leaves should be removed.

 Spathiphyllum is an excellent toxin remover in the house and office. Simply place desktop sized Spathiphyllum near computers, to help clean up those volatile chemicals.

 Spathiphyllum is mildly toxic to humans and animals when ingested. So don't eat it, no matter how hungry you are!!!

Monday, 10 November 2008

GARDENING: AIR PURIFYING INDOOR PLANTS


Indoor plants are an essential element to any office setting and in my opinion, homes. They can add warmth, colour, texture, and they also purify the air.

A recent study by the University of Technology Sydney found that pot plants could remove common pollutants. Three large pot plants per room (that’s floor-standing sized plants) are enough to clean the air to the point where contaminants are negligible.

In 1989 a scientific study for NASA found that a number of popular indoor plants, including Dracaena and Spathiphyllum, were effective in purifying the air. Air pollutants can be a bi-product of the material in office furniture and building materials, and from air-conditioning.


Certain plants, more than others, can absorb the poisons and toxins in the air. These include Dracaena deremensis; the bamboo palm Chamaedorea microspadix, which is attractive looking, and the sculptured Dracaena marginata.


Another good indoor plant is the Sansevieria trifasciata, or mother in law's tongue. It needs little water, is very hardy, and does well in low light.

The peace lily Spathiphyllum is one of the plants that probably performs the best in low light conditions. Leave it in a room without any windows and it will survive on artificial light.


Aglaonema is a beautiful plant that also does well in low light and is in the top10 most popular plants that remove toxins from the air. Different varieties include ‘Silver Queen’ and ‘Silver King’ - so named because of the silver mottling in the leaves.


Yuccas are an in-vogue plant at the moment. In fact many plants with angles are popular. Look out for Yucca elephantipes which looks good in a pot, but try a combination of three different sizes in the same pot. These plants look especially good in boardrooms and reception areas.

Happy gardening.

Friday, 24 October 2008

GARDENING: EASY CARE INDOOR PLANTS – SYNGONIUM OR ARROWHEAD PLANT


Currently I have around 6 different varieties of Syngonium and it is one of my favourite plants as it is so easy to grow and quite hassle free. I just love the variegation in the foliage and their colours.


The other good thing about this plant is you can either grow it in soil or in water. The plant is not ‘shocked’ easily so you can easily change its position around the house. What I mean by ‘shocked’ is that some plants do not like to be shifted once they have settled in a position. They can go into shock and wither when you change their ‘home’, until they get acclimatised again.


Tip: I usually grow most of my plants in plastic pots. I then have a variety of pretty containers such as porcelain and brass pots and change my plants around the house according to seasons, light levels or just to change the décor. This way, you are not restricted to the same plant in the same position.


FYI, Syngonium is a genus of 33 species of flowering plants in the family Araceae, native to tropical rain forests in Central and South America. They are woody vines growing to heights of 10-20 m or more in trees. They have leaves that change shape according to the plant's stage of growth, and adult leaf forms are often much more lobed than the juvenile forms usually seen on small house plants.

Syngonium species are often grown as house plants in the juvenile foliage stages.


Quick reference guide:
 There are several variegated cultivars, the main differences being in the position and extent of the cream or white markings. Some leaves are almost entirely white, pink or yellow. All parts of the plant are poisonous and cause severe mouth pain if eaten.
 For successful growth, a winter minimum temperature 16 °C to 18 °C must be maintained, rising to 20 °C to 30 °C during the growing season.
 They require high humidity, including misting the leaves regularly, and good light, but not direct sunlight; they will tolerate low light levels. Water freely from spring to autumn, sparingly in winter.
 Feed regularly in spring and summer.
 If juvenile foliage is preferred, cut off all the climbing stems that develop — the plant will remain bushy, rather than climb, and the leaves will be more arrow-shaped.
 Re-pot every second spring.
 Propagation is by cuttings or air layering. I normally just cut pieces near the tip of the plant, allowing provisions of some aerial roots and sticking it into water until it takes root completely. I also grow them in water permanently (see picture below).

Thursday, 2 October 2008

GARDENING: EASY CARE INDOOR POT PLANTS – CHAMAEDOREA ELEGANS OR PARLOUR PALM


One of the easiest plants to grow in your home and also looks great is the Chamaedorea Elegans or Parlour Palm, as it is commonly known. For over a century, parlour palms have enjoyed a place in homes all over the world. A low growing palm (up to 3 feet high) that is very tough, it will tolerate a lot of abuse but with a small amount of care will thrive. Great in almost any room of the house. Originally from Mexico and Guatemala, its original habitat is as an understory plant in rainforests. It therefore can tolerate low light areas in the house and does not like direct sunlight.

The Chamaedorea Elegans is a dwarf palm with long graceful green fronds. The leaves can grow to 3-4 feet long and are held upright by a small diameter reed-like trunk. The palm grows slowly and seldom reaches over 3-4 feet in height. The palm is very hardy and provides a fantastic tropical effect indoors or out. The plant is frost tolerant up to minus 4°C.

This graceful looking palm is very easy to grow and maintain. Plant in fast draining soil and place palm out of direct sunlight. Lightly fertilize with a dose of slow release fertiliser during the start of the cooler months and liquid fertiliser once a month during the warmer periods. Let soil almost dry out between watering. Misting and occasional turning of the palm (makes the leaves grow evenly and the trunk grow straight) is recommended for maximum beauty. Do not leave water standing in saucer.


Quick reference guide:

 Site: A light position but will also handle some shade.
 Temp: Average warmth - will need misting if its really hot.
 Water: Quite regularly in the growing season and rarely over the winter months.
 Feeding: A liquid feed every month or so; 1 dose of slow release fertiliser during the start of winter.
 Tip: Brown tips on the leaves mean the humidity needs to be raised, give it a light misting with a spay bottle.
 General: Probably the most commonly grown indoor palm in the world. Very resilient to low light, air-conditioning, drying out, and over watering (though not necessarily enjoying any of them).
 One of the most popular palms in the world, its ability to put up with low light, drought and general abuse is legendary. Additionally it flowers when still quite young. It is not recommended that you tap the flowers for toddy, he!he!

Thursday, 18 September 2008

GARDENING: EASY CARE INDOOR POT PLANTS – SCINDAPSUS AUREUS OR DEVIL’S IVY



Okay, as promised, I am posting my gardening tips again and today I will continue with another easy indoor plant to grow which is the Scindapsus Aureus or the Devil’s Ivy aka Pothos.

It is a common houseplant and is easy to grow from cuttings. I normally just cut pieces near the tip of the plant, allowing some aerial roots and sticking it into water until it takes root. It does very well in low light levels. You can let this plant go for a week or so without water and be careful about overwatering. Avoid growing the plant in full sun.


The Scindapsus is a trailing or climbing plant and does well trained on a moss pole. I however like to cascade it by placing it on top of a cupboard or ledge, or in a macramé pot hanger. Its leaves are leathery and heart shaped. The leaves are often variegated. However, in the literature, it says that the more variegated the leaves, the harder the plant is to care for. I have not found this to be an issue.


Quick reference guide:
 Temperature: Prefers warmer temperatures of between 15°C and 30°c. Lower leaves will turn yellow or produce rust like spots if temperatures fall below 10°c to 12°c.

 Light : Does best in medium to bright indirect sunlight or light.

 Water: Should be watered well and allowed to dry out on top in the warmer brighter environments. Reduce water substantially in lower light conditions. Over watering causes root rot and leaf drop.

 Humidity: Tolerates high humidity and enjoys misting in the high light areas.

 Pests: Is relatively free of pests if maintained in a healthy condition. Is prone to attack by mealy bug, thrips and mites when under environmental maintenance stress.

 Feeding: A liquid feed every month or so during warmer months.

 Tip: If your plant is getting too leggy pinch out the tips and propagate extra plants with the pinched out foliage.

 History: Originally from the Solomon Islands it has been a main stay as an interior foliage plant, because of its tolerance for adverse indoor growing conditions. Devil’s Ivy belongs to the aroid (Araceae) family, which contains more than 100 genera including a number of popular foliaged plant genera such as Aglaonema, Anthurium, Diffenbachia, Monsteria and Philodendron.

Saturday, 28 June 2008

GARDENING: EASY CARE INDOOR POT PLANTS - CHLOROPHYTUM OR SPIDER PLANT (II)



More pictures of Chlorophytums (Spider Plants). As you can see, they are very easy to grow. I propogated all the plants in the picture from one main plant. It's that simple and it is a cheap and easy way to dress up an empty space (in the above instance, a window ledge).

Sunday, 15 June 2008

GARDENING: EASY CARE INDOOR POT PLANTS - CHLOROPHYTUM OR SPIDER PLANT (I)

Another easy house plant to grow is the “Chlorophytum” or commonly known as the “Spider Plant”. There are so many different varieties and variations of the plant. Another good thing about this plant is that it is so easy to grow and propagate. It sends out little plantlets that you can cut off from the mother plant and just put it into some soil. It is that easy. I have propagated around 10 plants from one plant and have given numerous away to friends and neighbours. And a bonus to boot – you can get it very cheap from nurseries! To ensure a healthy growth, position in good light but away from direct sunlight; water generously in spring to autumn and sparingly in winter; and feed with liquid fertiliser spring to summer. Easy!

Well, here are the few varieties of the Spider plant that I have in my home.

PS: I made the macramé pot hangers myself. More than happy to teach anyone who is interested.

Thursday, 5 June 2008

GARDENING: BUYING INDOOR PLANTS AND POTTING TIPS

Peace Lily

Parlour Palm

Two of the easiest house plants to grow are the Peace Lily (Spathiphyllum) and the Parlour Palm (Chamaedorea elegans) . Even the most novice of gardeners are able to grow these plants. Ensure that you start off with a healthy plant. You can find good quality plants at Bunnings or your local garden centres. I don’t normally recommend buying plants from supermarkets as the plants are not looked after as vigorously as it would have been in a proper nursery or hardware centres that have dedicated nurseries in their establishments.

Next, make sure that the plant looks healthy and has lots of new shoots at the side of the main plant (this will ensure that you will have an even growth and that the plant will not grow lanky) and that there are no excess roots at the bottom of the plant. Roots showing at the bottom of the plants denote that the plants have been pot bound for too long. Finally, make sure that the soil in the pot is moist. You don’t want to buy a dehydrated plant.

Once you have chosen your plant, the next stage is to choose a medium to grow your plant in. For novices, always ensure that your medium has drainage holes as you don’t want your plant to be submerged in water constantly and hence suffer from root rot. If you tend to travel a lot and are away from your home for extended periods of time, I’d suggest self watering pots. You can get some really nice designs at your local nurseries, hardware stores or at Big W or Kmart. Ensure that the size of your new container is only a size or two bigger than the original pot. If the pot is too big, the plant will expense most of its energy to build roots, not the foliage. Also if your pot is not in proportion with your plant, it will loose its aesthetics.

The next stage is your potting mix. Don’t skimp on quality here and make sure that you buy soil suitable for container planting. Also, at this stage, don’t forget to purchase your slow release fertiliser, fish emulsion, water retention crystals and watering can (trust me, this comes in handy). If you are using self watering containers, plant your new plant according to the instructions.

If you are using terracotta or plastic containers, start by heavily watering the plant that is to be transferred. Prepare your soil by adding water crystals as per packet instruction. Then fill in the base of the new pot with some soil. Insert the existing plant pot into the new pot, ensuring that the level of the soil surface will be about 1 to 2 cm below the top of the new pot when filled. Pack soil firmly in the gap between the new pot and existing pot. This will create a mould. Gently lift out the existing pot, remove the plant from the pot, and drop it into the hole of the new pot. Gently firm the soil on the top of the plant, adding more if needed (but ensuring that you still have that 1 to 2 cm gap at the top). Put in your slow release fertiliser as per packet instruction. Water thoroughly. You are now the proud owner of a new re potted plant!

During the growing periods (in Australia it would be end spring to mid autumn) to ensure a more luscious and healthy growth, you can give your plants a feed of liquid fertiliser. I personally go for either the fish or seaweed solutions. Use per bottle instructions.

I have attached two photos as an example (see above). I have them sitting on the bathroom sink. I bought these plants last November and they were around 18cms and I paid AUD$3.95 per plant. They are now between 30 and 45cms which would retail around AUD$19.95 each.

Happy gardening!

Saturday, 31 May 2008

GARDENING: MY HOUSE PLANTS




I was going to put Mr G’s pork roast on the web yesterday but unfortunately, Mr G had carved up the meat before I had time to take a picture. The next time we have a roast, I’ll put the recipe up.

I have just finished watering my house plants today and I have to admit sometimes my plants do frustrate me that I have to spend time on its maintenance. However, when I see how beautiful they look, it is worth the effort. I have to say that I have gone a bit overboard with my house plants. I don’t have as many as I used to (mind you I still have quite a few) as at one stage, I had 300 plants indoor…..no I am not kidding.

Actually, plants are easy to take care if you buy the right types. Once your confidence levels have increased, you can always try growing more exotic plants. The only problem with having houseplants is when you go away – you need someone to come and water the plants if you are away for prolonged periods of time. However you can leave your plants unattended for up to two weeks if you use these methods:
· by using water retention crystals in your soil;
· using self watering pots;
· sitting your plants on a plate full of pebbles and filling up the plate with water. You should do this for ferns regardless as it creates humidity which is essential for healthy ferns;
· Getting a used soft drink bottle, cut out its base, attach a spike to the mouth of the bottle (you can get this from Bunnings) and spike this into your pot plant. Fill up the bottle from the cut out bottom. This will slowly release water into your soil; or
· Find a good mate who will water your plants for you!

In coming blogs, I’ll write about plants that are easy to grow that you can use to spice up your home. In the meantime, these are some of my plants that I have in my home.